Skin care product formulation is more and more linked to our understanding of human biology. The formulators behind anti-aging product innovation are increasingly concerned with how products interact with human biology, and scientists are paying more attention than ever to epigenetics as a major factor in that equation.
“Epigenetics” involve any long-term changes to a chromosome that don’t involve modification of the core DNA sequence itself. These can still create lasting and profound effects, though,. External or environmental factors can cause these changes, which may happen at random or be provoked by exposure to dietary factors, pollutants, social interactions and more. Since they’re not “genetic” processes, though, they can be reversed.
This matters in skin care science because the skin is an easy-to-observe organ where epigenetic effects can be readily studied because it’s most exposed to the factors that cause epigenetic changes.
Smoking or sun exposure cause epigenetic effects, of course, but now there’s greater insight about how epigenetics can actually affect heredity. One study found that the type of diet given pregnant mice affected the hair color of their offspring: a lack of folic acid permanently changed the expression of the hair color gene, from blackish to blondish, for every subsequent generation.
The epigenetics of anti-aging (and how it’s impacting products)
There’s mounting evidence of how epigenetic processes influence how our skin ages. Recent studies involving twins have shown that up to 60% of the skin aging variation between individuals can be attributed to genetic factors, with the remaining 40% due to non-genetic factors.
Skin care products are increasingly able to affect both sides of this coin.
It’s well-accepted that our cells’ ability to conduct DNA repair slacks off with aging. But if epigenetic effects are preventable or even potentially reversible, it’s no wonder the next generation of cosmeceuticals may be able to have profound effects on how our skin ages. Antioxidant ingredients are already added to cosmeceuticals tp help block DNA damage; it’s believed that glycerine succeeds by interacting with aquaporins, proteins in cell membranes that regulate the flow of water, allowing moisturization.
So ingredients companies like Lipotec are expanding formulators’ options; their peptide, Reproage, claims to “reprogram” the skin’s basal layer to reactivate its regenerative abilities.
It’s clear that epigenetics is shaping up as a future “gold rush” for personal care product marketers and formulators, especially as they strive to take advantage of the worldwide boom in anti-aging and skin care products. A few years from now, we may be seeing truly revolutionary anti-aging treatments commonly filling the makeup and skin care shelves of our local CVS or Sephora.
Interested in finding out more? One interesting read on the subject is Richard C. Francis’ Epigenetics: How Environment Shapes Our Genes,
Or check out this presentation by UCLA’s Rebecca Gadberry, where she notes that the mechanisms behind these treatments mean they’re walking a fine line between being skin care versus drugs. A line the FDA may be watching like a hawk.
